I stayed in Nice for a week and treated it like my home base. Each morning, I grabbed a coffee, tossed a hat and water in my bag, and ran off. Trains and buses made it easy. Cheap, too. I tried a bunch of day trips. Some were pure joy. A few had snags. Here’s the real story.
For deeper planning on routes, tickets, and seasonal tips, Just France offers a clear, regularly updated guide that I found invaluable.
If you want the blow-by-blow log of every success and stumble, you can skim my longer trip journal right here.
Quick picks if you’re skimming:
- Best view: Èze village and the cactus garden
- Best lazy beach day: Villefranche-sur-Mer
- Best art-and-stroll mix: Antibes
- Best gardens: Villa Ephrussi on Cap Ferrat
- Best “wow, that’s fancy”: Monaco
- Best quiet charm: Menton
- Best mountain rail ride: Train des Merveilles to Saorge/Tende
Monaco: Glam, Hills, and a Surprise Picnic
I took the coastal train from Nice-Ville. It was fast and pretty. I got off at Monaco and walked down to the harbor. The yachts looked like spaceships. I felt underdressed, which made me laugh.
I spent the morning at the Oceanographic Museum. The tanks glowed a soft blue, and a kid next to me shouted every time a shark turned. Cute, but loud. I grabbed a simple baguette sandwich and ate it on a bench above Port Hercule. Fancy view. Cheap lunch. Great combo.
I did peek at the Casino. Heads up: there’s a dress code in some areas, and they may want ID. I wore sandals and passed on a table. No big deal. The hills? Oof. So many stairs. My calves had thoughts.
What bugged me:
- Crowds in the afternoon
- Slower lines for the train after 5 pm
Tip: Go early. Bring water. Stick to shaded streets when you can.
Èze Village: The Dream View and the Knee-Burn Hike
I rode the bus up the cliff road to Èze. The stone lanes were tight and twisty, like a maze. I paid the small fee for the Exotic Garden. Worth it. Cacti stacked up like little soldiers. The sea looked unreal, like blue paint.
I did the Nietzsche Path down to the coast. It’s steep. Lots of loose rock. My knees grumbled. I was careful and took breaks in the shade. At the bottom, I dipped my feet at Èze-sur-Mer and felt alive again.
I toured the Fragonard perfume spot nearby. Free, short, and fun. The scents were strong, though, so I kept it quick.
What bugged me:
- Midday heat on the hike
- Buses bunch up sometimes; I waited longer than I liked
Tip: Good shoes, hat, water. No flip-flops on that trail, please. Your ankles will thank you.
Villefranche-sur-Mer: Easy, Breezy Beach Hour
Seven-ish minutes by train. Done. The harbor is a watercolor—peach houses, blue water, tiny boats. I laid on the pebble beach and read for a bit. Simple joy. The water was clear, and I saw a silver fish zip by my toes.
I grabbed a lemon ice and watched a cruise tender putter in. It felt calm even with people around. I left before the late rush and made it back to Nice for socca and sunset.
What bugged me:
- Pebbles are not kind—water shoes help
- One jellyfish sighting near the rocks; I moved, easy fix
Tip: Pack a small towel and a snack. Stay for the soft evening light.
Cap Ferrat + Villa Ephrussi: Coastal Walk and a Pink Palace
I hopped a local bus toward Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The Sentier du Littoral (the coastal path) wraps the headland. Parts splash you with sea spray. Watch your step; the rock is rough in places.
Planning note: If you like a map in hand before heading out, the AllTrails guide to the Sentier Littoral de Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and this photo-rich overview on SeeNice lay the route out clearly.
Then I wandered to Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. It’s a pink dream with themed gardens. On the hour, the fountains “dance” with music. I stood under a cypress and just listened. Calm, like a breath you didn’t know you held.
If you’d rather plant yourself on the peninsula and sink into a lounge chair all day, I’ve got a full review of nearby Paloma Beach over here.
What bugged me:
- Little shade on the path
- Cafe line at the villa was slow
Tip: Bring water and a hat. I ate a quick baguette from a small bakery by the bus stop and felt smart about it.
Antibes: Art, Ramparts, and a Beach Break
The train to Antibes was smooth. I strolled the market in the old town. Olives, herbs, and peaches that smelled like summer itself. I grabbed a slice of warm socca and a tiny espresso in a chipped cup.
I visited the Picasso Museum in the old castle. Blue sea outside, sharp lines inside. Then I walked the ramparts and watched kids jump off the rocks (braver than me). I swam at Plage de la Gravette. It’s sheltered and easy.
What bugged me:
- Market gets jammed by noon
- Museum rooms felt warm on a hot day
Tip: Morning here is best. Then swim. Then nap. Trust me.
Cannes: Glossy and a Bit Pricey, But Fun in Small Doses
I went to Cannes on a bright day. I strolled La Croisette and tried to act cool. The water sparkled. The shops stared back. I took a goofy photo on the red-carpet steps at the Palais. No one judged me. Or they did, but I didn’t care.
Public beach is decent for a quick dip. Later, I had a coffee that cost a smidge too much. Was it worth it? For the view—yes. For the taste—meh.
If you’re tempted to base yourself farther west along the coast for a night or two, my stay at the Atoll Hotel in Fréjus is summed up in this candid breakdown.
What bugged me:
- Prices
- During the film festival, sidewalks get extra full and some areas close
Tip: Pack your own snack and spend your money on a cold drink by the sea.
If you’re a solo traveler who wants your Riviera nights to be a little less solo, it’s worth glancing at this no-fluff rundown of the best adult finder apps to get laid in 2025—the piece compares which platforms actually have active users, what they cost, and how to stay safe, so you can skip the duds and get straight to the fun.
For travelers who’d like a real-world example of what booking an inclusive, gender-affirming companion entails before testing the waters on the Riviera, take a moment to browse this detailed page on a trusted trans escort in Deland—it breaks down services offered, etiquette, and safety considerations so you can approach any future arrangement with confidence and respect.
Menton: Lemon Town With Slow Magic
Menton feels softer. Pastel houses lean over slim lanes. I grabbed a lemon tart and ate it on a ledge by the water. Tart, sweet, perfect. I wandered a small garden (Val Rahmeh is lovely) and listened to the cicadas buzz like tiny engines.
If you come in February, the lemon festival fills the town with giant citrus floats. I went in late summer and liked the quiet.
What bugged me:
- Occasional border checks cause small train delays
- Midday heat sits heavy
Tip: Seek shade near the basilica. It’s peaceful there.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence: Art, Cobblestones, and Pétanque
I caught a bus up to this hill town. It twists like a ribbon. I watched locals play pétanque near the gate. The click of the metal balls felt like a movie. I walked the wall, peeked into galleries, and then visited Fondation Maeght. The garden sculptures stole the show.
I ate a simple salade Niçoise at a tiny spot under vines. Not fancy. Very good.
What bugged me:
- Cobbles are rough. Tough for strollers and bad knees
- Bus back took a while; I missed one by two minutes and sighed
Tip: Wear shoes with grip. Save time for the art center if you like modern work.